Hey there Travellers,

It is nice to see that you're not an overly judgemental bunch. Last week, I asked you for your take on "respectful dressing" at 38,000 ft, and the feedback was generally pretty balanced: comfort is paramount, but (when you have the choice) there's no need to be sloppy.

There were a few exceptions, however. Some of you felt that travel is indeed a special occasion, so we should dress appropriately, while others were defiant in the face of budget discomfort — if the airlines won't rise to the occasion, why should we?

Needless to say, I'm not planning to wear my Sunday best this afternoon, when I board a Ryanair flight to Porto for my last foreign adventure of the year. I'll probably make sure there aren't any coffee stains down my front before I board, but I can't guarantee there won't be a splash of port wine there by the time I return.

Happy travels and safe landings,

Hey there, traveller! You’re in the right place. I spent about 6 months in Guatemala, so I’ve got heaps of tips for you.

As a solo female traveller, I’ll start with what I wish someone had said to me about travelling in Guatemala: It’s hard, it’s beautiful, and it’ll change you. It’ll challenge everything you think you know if you let it.

Once you allow yourself to be moved by the layers of Maya history, the insane resilience of communities, and truly feel the weight and warmth of a place shaped by such struggle and beauty, you cannot unfeel or unknow. And isn’t that one of the reasons why we travel to places like this? To feel something real enough that it stays with us long after we’re home?

But to do that, please take my advice and step outside the “expat” bubble, especially since you said you don’t like big crowds. Overtourism can be a real issue here, especially in places like Antigua, and even more so on the shores of Lake Atitlán, where I spent most of my time.

It’s easy to be swept up by blogs promising a “hippie mecca” of self-declared healers and “sacred” retreats in San Marcos la Laguna. But trust me, not all that glitters is gold. Sadly, the traditions of the Kaqchikel and Tz’utujil peoples have been watered down, mass-produced, and sold back as “authentic.” As a result, they are exploited, priced out, and often treated as background noise to the version of culture visitors prefer to consume. I won’t go into detail here; that’s another blog post in the making.

But if you are keen on visiting the lake, there are still a handful of towns that are a little less curated than San Marcos, San Pedro and Panajachel. They aren’t entirely tourism-free but Jaibalito and Santa Cruz la Laguna offer more of a relaxing escape from the crowds, have a handful of locally run guesthouses, and some decent hiking (be sure to hire a guide). And San Juan, although firmly on the map, is home to Maya women’s weaving co-operatives that specialize in naturally dyed textiles that align with the Mayan moon calendar.

These cooperatives play a pivotal role in the community, preserving traditional weaving techniques and improving the overall quality of life for the local women. You can take workshops here run directly by the families themselves. San Juan is also the unofficial gateway to the sunrise Indian Nose Hike; but again, remember to always go with a guide! 

Many towns across the lake also have family-run Spanish programs or homestays paired with lessons. 

Since you mentioned that you “love getting to know villages and local culture as well as experiencing nature/mountains”, I’d recommend certain parts of Guatemala that sit well beyond the Atitlán–Antigua loop.

The Ixil Triangle in the Western Highlands (Nebaj, Chajul, Cotzal) is one of the most culturally rich and resilient regions in the country. And being right up in the Highlands, your guide will be able to take you on some fantastic hikes.

The Ixil people live in the high, rugged mountains of the Cuchumatanes, which has historically kept them pretty isolated. This allowed them to maintain their unique customs, dress, and language longer than many lowland Maya groups who faced more colonial influence.

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Every time someone asks me what was the most unforgettable trip I have ever taken, I can’t help but think of the month I spent in the Amazon Rainforest, navigating the Amazon River on hammock boats.

It’s been over four years since I waved goodbye to those 5am breakfast calls and pink dolphin spotting sessions, and — although I’ve loved discovering other corners of Brazil and its incredible culture — my itch to return to the Amazon has been growing and growing.

So, while most of my friends will be enjoying Carnaval on the streets of Rio de Janeiro and Salvador de Bahia this February, I’ve decided to embark on a voyage to complete my navigation of the Amazon River. This time, my dear friend Phil and I will navigate from Belém do Pará all the way to Macapá, in Amapá state, and then spend a week or so in the area.

How much do we know about Amapá? Virtually nothing. And while we’re incredibly excited about the adventure ahead, information about what to do in the area is veeeeery scarce. For the record — this is all part of the fun when it comes to discovering underrated corners of South America, of course!

Now, if you take a peek at the map, you’ll see that the state of Amapá borders French Guiana. As a good ol’ Border Studies alumnus, hopping over the Oyapok River is already on my bucket list, and for the past couple of days, I’ve been on the search for fun projects and detours around the area.

What made my Amazon escapade so special last time were the connections I made on the road river, and all the culture I was lucky enough to be welcomed into, allowed to listen to and photograph.

So, now I turn to you — well-seasoned travellers who aren’t scared of venturing off the beaten path and have visited French Guiana, Amapá, or even just Pará’s hinterlands — do you have any advice for me? Let me know in the comments!

Muito obrigada, gente :-)

All the important (or silly, or strange) travel news from across web this week.

• Can you guess which once isolated nation is becoming the fastest-growing travel destination on the planet? Hint: It’s a Stan.
  
  
• Somewhere at the bottom of the sea, Norway’s busy building the world’s longest and deepest undersea road tunnel. It aims to replace current ferries on the west coast faster than you can say “Rogaland fastforbindelse”
  
  
• As if removing their 2 free checked bags wasn’t enough, Southwest Airlines is aiming to become public enemy number 1 by charging plus-sized passengers for two seats from January 27th, 2026.
  
  
• Machu Picchu, but make it Caucasus. Would you travel all the way to rural Azerbaijan to see this lost city dupe?
  
  
• And finally, spotted over South Africa’s skies: is it a bird, is it a plane, is it Santa? Actually, it is one of those things, we're just not sure which. Think: high-speed sleigh pulled by a springbok and a zebra.