This article was originally published in the Detour in May 2023.

Good choice, reader, Melbourne is a cracker! It has newly been crowned Australia’s largest city, yet still lives in Sydney’s opera-house-shaped shadow. A month is a long time, but we’re more than happy to recommend a few ways to maximise your stay.

Getting around

Don’t worry about buying a transport pass for getting around. Many of Melbourne’s most popular tourist attractions are located in and around the CBD (central business district) and the Docklands. Not only does this mean it’s pretty walkable, but it also means a lot of the places you want to visit are within the city’s Free Tram Zone.

For the full hop-on-hop-off tour experience, stick to the City Circle Tram (no. 35). It provides plenty of history and cheesy chat at no extra cost, plus the added charm of an old school tram. The main downside is that it’s marketed squarely at tourists, so it’s likely to be packed full of slightly lost-looking rucksack wearers during summer in particular.

As you’re staying for over a month, reader, you’re likely going to be spending time outside the CBD, too. We recommend picking up a myki travel card for those days when you’re travelling on trains, buses and trams outside the Free Tram Zone.

Food, glorious food

Usually we wouldn’t suggest disappearing down back lanes to escape the hustle and bustle, but we’ll make an exception in Melbourne. It’s famous for “European-style” cobblestone laneways featuring bold street art and hole-in-the-wall bars and restaurants that spill out onto the street.

The city has earned itself a reputation as a foodie paradise, and it’s in these backstreets that you’re going to stumble across the crème de la crème. From a simple pastrami on rye to Malaysian street food and Italian fine dining, there's a treasure trove of cuisines hidden away in the labyrinth.

But how do you choose where to start when the world is (somewhat literally) your oyster? Here are a few JFC favourites to help you get started:

• Lune Croissants: Never thought you’d queue round the block for a cruffin? Think again. They are (somewhat controversially) home to the best croissants in the world—including any in France. Our in-house Aussie, Larissa, recommends going mid-morning to avoid the mad rush.
• Hardware Société: Fancy Aussie brunch with a French twist. So fancy, in fact, that they even have cafés in Paris and Barcelona, so you know it’ll be worth the wait. It’s walk-in only, so the earlier you get there, the better.
• Brunetti Classico: A true Melbourne institution for anyone with a sweet tooth. It’s an authentic, family-run Italian café known for its cakes, pastries and gelato. Even if you don’t have time to sit in, stop by their gelato bar for a scoop or two!

Out and about

We jumped into the JFC Facebook Community to see what our members were recommending for Melbourne, and the number one thing that came up again and again was a day trip along the Great Ocean Road.

The 150-mile coastal route runs between Torquay, around 1.5 hrs south-west of Melbourne, and the town of Warrnambool. That’s a lot of driving for just one day, so consider joining an organised tour or hiring a car and spreading the trip over a few days.

There are a few major “wow!” moments along the way, like Erskine Falls, a 30-metre-high waterfall that cascades down into a fern-lined ravine.

Then just a little further south, at Teddy’s Lookout, is where you get the iconic view of the Great Ocean Road used in every tourist brochure. It’s easily accessible from the town of Lorne, so you can expect this one to be busy with both locals and visitors—but the view really is cracking.

No surprises what you’ll find on the Kennett River Koala Walk. The main difference here is that it’s no koala sanctuary or zoo, these are legit wild koalas. Despite what the name says, you can actually drive along the road for miles, avoiding the throngs of tourists stopped by the main road.

Just be sure not to stand directly below your new furry pal when you spot them up among the eucalyptus—they have been known to relieve themselves on unsuspecting passers-by…

The further along the Great Ocean Road you get, the crazier the landscape becomes. Port Campbell National Park serves up a few phenomenal geological formations all in the one area: the Twelve Apostles, Loch Ard Gorge and London Bridge. Try to hit the park early in the morning or just in time for sunset so you can enjoy the views in peace. You might even spot some cute little penguins at dusk!

If you don’t fancy the long road trip, all is not lost! Phillip Island is only 90 minutes from Melbourne and home to rugged coastlines, sandy beaches, and a fascinating Aboriginal history. Oh, and more penguins! Top that off with a visit to one of the island’s breweries or wineries, and we don’t see much reason to leave.

There can surely never be enough little penguins in your life, though. So no matter what else you do, please (for all our sakes) make sure to head down to St Kilda Pier at dusk and say hello to this lot. And then send us pictures.

We hope that’s given you a few ideas, reader. Have an amazing time Down Under, and let us know how you get on!