If there's one thing I love about travelling, it's the surprising moments that offer a glimpse into another way of life and seeing the world.

During my time in Guatemala, I had many. But one little place that stood out to me along the shores of Lake Atitlán was a teeny tiny village called San Juan La Laguna. 

It’s just a quick boat taxi from Panajachel (party central) and San Marcos (cosplay hippie central) yet felt fairly overlooked by the masses. Probably down to its size — you’re most likely only there to do one of two things; shop for textiles or start a hike. And that’s precisely why I was there, too. 

Known for its rich Tz'utujil Maya culture, San Juan La Laguna is home to inspiring women-led weaving cooperatives called Asociación de Mujeres Tejedoras. It was here where I was schooled on the sacred connection of the moon and the importance of Mayan cosmology.

Each hand-woven piece not only carries beauty but is also encoded with Mayan cosmovision. No pattern is accidental; zigzags represent the mountains, the guardians of the lake, while diamonds represent the four corners of the universe. And that’s all guided by the ancient wisdom of the moon.

The moon (known as Ixchel, the goddess of weaving, fertility, and wisdom) influences the energy of creation and plays a crucial role in shaping not only Mayan mythology but everyday life too. The women of San Juan observe the moon’s phases to determine the best times for: 

• Spinning thread – It is believed that thread spun under a waning moon will be stronger and less likely to break.
  
  
• Dyeing fabrics – Natural dyes (made from plants like indigo, cochineal, and avocado leaves) are said to absorb better during specific lunar phases, ensuring vibrant, long-lasting colours. 
  
  
• Beginning a new weaving – Starting a textile during a new moon is considered auspicious, as it symbolizes new beginnings and growth.

Avoiding weaving on certain days – Some weavers refrain from weaving during the full moon, as it is thought to bring excessive energy that may disrupt the balance of the work.

As a visitor, I was encouraged to take weaving workshops and learn about the natural dyes made from plants, insects, and materials such as:

• Indigo (jiquilite): Associated with the night sky and the underworld, indigo dyeing is often done in quiet, meditative conditions to honor its depth. 
  
  
• Cochineal (tiny insects on cacti): The vibrant red symbolizes lifeblood and is linked to feminine energy. Harvesting and dyeing with cochineal is sometimes timed with the waxing moon to "draw up" its intensity.
  
  
• Avocado leaves, basil & other plants: Each carries their own story. For example, avocado pits create shades of pink—a color tied to dawn and new beginnings.

Cooperatives like Flor Ixcaco and Noma work tirelessly to empower local women, both socially and economically, ensuring fair wages. In many ways, these cooperatives are an act of resilience. Colonialism and globalization suppressed Mayan traditions, but the women of San Juan strive to reclaim their heritage and preserve their ancestral weaving techniques. 

This glimpse into local life and ritual allowed me to witness something truly authentic and important to the people of San Juan La Laguna. I’d encourage anyone visiting Lake Atitlán to take the time to spend a day experiencing the lifestyle here for themselves. 

So how can you engage ethically with these traditions? 

• Listen and learn: Ask weavers, "How does Ixchel inspire your work?" or "What moon phase is best for dyeing?" Be open to learning about their rich traditions and beliefs without judgment. 
  
  
• Buy directly from cooperatives: Support collectives like Casa Flor Ixcaco or Asociación Batz’. Avoid markets and online shops where resellers exploit artisans. Sadly, this is a common occurrence. 
  
  
• Honor the sacred: Some designs may be ceremonial. Ask before photographing or touching, and the same goes for taking pictures of women weaving. And if you do join a dyeing workshop, participate with reverence — it’s a spiritual process.